Friday 30th March 2012 Day 31 Homeward Bound

Leaving Port Augusta for home I write this last note with sadness as we have had such an experience.

Driving the Kombi slowly, needing to stop regularly, stinking hot at times all made the trip interesting it gave us a chance to really see the sights rather than passing flashes at 110kph.  We’ve struggled through 46C temps, Cyclones forming, flooded creek/river crossings, 90% humidity and some beautiful weather at the most unlikely places such as The Nullabor Plain, Alice Spring and Uluru have all added to the experience that neither of us will forget.

Next year Boris the Kombi will definitely be called upon to take us around the east coast of Australia. Stay tuned for 2013 The Wirth’s in their 74 Kombi will continue.

Cheers

Bev and Darren Wirth

March 2012

Thursday 29th March 2012 Day 30 Last Stop Coober Pedy to Port Augusta

We left Coober Pedy at 730am and were unsure about how far to travel today. We travelled down taking in the sights such as Lake Hart and several other scenic photo stops. Entering to get petrol at Glendambo the sign that greeted us was quite humorous, check the sign out below, as it will explain its self. As we approached Pimba we decided to drive a few km to Woomera. A very neat but almost deserted ghost town, there were only a few people to be seen, some kids waving at the kombi and most others likely to be tourists looking at the static displays. We left to get petrol at Pimba only to have the owner yack to Darren for ages about VW’s.

We arrived at Port Augusta and decided we would book a cabin for what will be our last night on the road after 30 days on the road. Luxury.

The sign says it all

A nice shower over Port Augusta

Wednesday 28th March 2012 Day 29 Lake Eyre 4WD Tour from Coober Pedy SA

Today it was up early as usual but today we were being picked up By Wayne from Arid Areas Tours for a 4WD tour to Lake Eyre. We left Coober Pedy to travel down the dirt road some 166km to William Creek to join the Oodnadatta Track to a track some 66km to Lake Eyre.
Where do you start to tell this story, driving a few minutes and its stop to pass the 500km Dog Fence. The best bit about Wayne's tour is that they are tailored to whatever you want. Wayne would stop for anything we would want to photograph and nothing was too much trouble, his knowledge matched his professional driving skills. Along the way we had close encounters with brown snakes, Bearded dragons and of course flies the minute you opened the door. The drive along William Creek Road was pretty smooth with a couple of washouts and several patches of corrugation likewise with the Oodnatta Track. The majority of the tour is actually passing through Anna Creek Station the latest Station in AustraliaAfter a short stop at William Creek we drove a few km down the track to join the track to Lake Eyre and a track was a kind word for the next 63km.

One of the sights along the William Creek Road

The track is poorly maintained and for the unexperienced 4WD would definitely be selected during the numerous thick sandy patches of the mud/water hazards. The most interesting thing about the drive was the number of times the landscape changed, the images Darren and I had were of a flat drive. We couldn't have been further from the truth.

Sand, water,  mud and rock the track had it all to challenge the driver

One of the last remaining telegraph poles from the overland telegraph near William Creek SA

Lake Eyre, what can you say an expansive of white salt with some water in the distance. We walked out a few hundred metres but the salt was slippery and later quite wet suctioning the boots as you walked. You have to be there to really appreciate its beauty.

After lunch on the lake we drove back to William Creek for a beer in the 1887 timber and corrugated iron pub. Character all through it. From there it was a visit to the Lake Cadibarrawirracanna which was quite plentiful with water. At 7pm we returned to the caravan park after what can only be described as a fantastic day in the outback.

The 1887 William Creek Pub

Tuesday 27th March 2012 Day 28 Coober Pedy South Australia

Today we visited the Old Timer's Mine exhibit in Coober Pedy. This was a very well presented self tour walking through several chambers of an original opal mine and then through to the main rooms of one of the families that lived underground back in the 1960's. Well worth a visit. Next it was off to check out some of the opal stores eventually visiting the Opal Beetle with a VW beetle out the front. Couldn't resist.
We also organised a 4WD trip with Wayne from Arid Areas Tours for Wednesday visiting Lake Eyre via William Creek. Looking forward to this we decided to relax with a cold XXXX beer for the rest of the day.

Bev in the Old Timers Mine exhibit

A view of Coober Pedy from the Mighty Winch up on one of the scenic lookouts

Monday 26th March 2012 Day 27 Uluru NT to Coober Pedy SA

Today its 250km just to get back to the Stuart Highway heading to Coober Pedy so in all it’s a 700km trip making it a long day. Travelling along to South Australia we noticed that the red desert look was more pronounced here than in the Northern Territory.

An interesting road sign whist entering and leaving Uluru on the Lassiter Highway

We didn’t do much other than petrol at Marla and by the time we arrived at Coober Pedy we were dog tired but soon woke up looking at the weird landscape with piles of white dirt everywhere from the diggings. We soon set up the tent found a pizza shop and enjoyed a cold beer, but whilst sitting in the drive thru a bloke comes along trying to flog of his $1000 opals Darren gave him a quick no thanks.

One thing about Coober Pedy there are millions of FLIES!

A Coober Pedy Sunset to close a long drive

Sunday 25th March 2012 Day 26 Flights over Uluru and Kings Canyon NT

Today it was to be a scenic fight but at 8am all we could do was leave a message so we decided to go driving off in search of the Olga’s after entering the park the company representative, pilot, check in and taxi driver Oliver called and we arranged a fixed wing and helicopter flights over Uluru, The Olga’s and Lake Armadas before a dirt strip landing in Kings Creek to join a helicopter for a flight over Kings Canyon.

Uluru NT

The 4 seater Cessna for the Uluru scenic flight

Bev at the Arrivals and Departure point at King Creek Station

Bev enjoying the Helicopter flight over Kings Canyon NT

We arrived at the airport to board a four seat Cessna and I looked at it thinking how on earth are we all going to fit in that. We jammed ourselves in taxied out only to turn around as the helicopter piot had left his fuel cap back at the refueling point. Oliver had to go looking for it and returned with shortly later fuel cap in hand. We were both thinking what have we signed up for! We took off on what was money well spent adventure. It was a little bumpy at times but I didn’t need the chuck bag.

The landing at Kings Creek Station strip was surprisngly smooth considering some of the grooves in the dirt. After some ribbing at Angus, the helicopter pilot’s expense we were off on Darren’s first helicopter flight. It was a great experience but disappointing in that we didn’t drop down in the canyon as we thought was the case but still it was a pleasant flight.

We stayed at the Station for a burger and a chat to the local Sulphur Crested Cocky named Charlie before a smooth flight back to Uluru.

Sit down after that now way we were off to the Olga’s for a walk, which really finished the day off nicely.

Bev on a walk at The Olga's

Saturday 24th March 2012 Day 25 Alice Springs to Uluru NT

We set off around 7am to venture to Uluru some 465km from Alice Springs and arriving early afternoon. We had a pleasant drive with the wind pushing the Kombi along saving us some petrol along the way. As we were driving along I said to Darren there’s Uluru but as we got closer it was Mt Connor (or as we later find out Foolaroo) but a little later Uluru could be seen in the distance. What a sight!!

We arrived at the Ayres Rock Resort campsite and set up our tent and left to see Uluru. As you drove closer we were just stunned by its majestic beauty. After parting with $25 each for a thre day pass we decided to tackle the base walk some 10.6km. We made it after 2hrs and 10minutes with Darren really feeling it but he said it was worth it. We watched a few people struggled down from the climb but for us it was an easy no-way I’m not climbing that! After that walk it was off to find some food, Fish n Chips and a cold beer. (Just don’t ask about the costs)

Uluru 

Sunset at Uluru

Uluru along the base walk

Friday 23rd March 2012 Day 24 Alice Springs to East and West McDonnell Ranges NT

Today we set off on our check out the East McDonnell Ranges with the first highlight being Emily Gap only 10km from the caravan park. We travelled along via Jessie Gap and Corroborree Rock until we came to the dirt road heading towards Trephina Gorge. We decided to give the road a go as there hadn’t been any rain for awhile and all was going fine until we came across the first creek bed crossing with sand and water in it. Darren walked the floodway and we decided to go on through which we did without a hitch. A little further up there was another creek, this one bigger and sandy but once again we got through it. Finally arriving at Trephina Gorge where we tackled a Gorge walk up along the ridge and then coming down to walk in the sandy partly filled creek. A lovely 45min walk with some great views.

Emily Gap, East McDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs, NT

This creek near Trephina gorge East McDonnell Ranges won't stop Bev or Boris

Trephina Gorge East McDonnell Ranges

We returned to Alice Springs to look around the town avoiding the shops for a change and decided to head out again to the Westy McDonnell Ranges going to Standley Chasm only to find it closes at 2.30PM!!! Why so early, who knows!! Turning back there was another gap to view called Simpson Gap and this was a pretty walk to a lovely pool of water surrounded by high quartz walls. It is also better known for its Black footed Wallabies.

Simpson Gap, West McDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs,  NT

Simpson Gap from the river bed

We called it a day and returned to The G’Day Mate Caravan Park to plan tomorrow’s drive to “The Rock “ Uluru.

Thursday 22nd March 2012 Day 23 Tennant Creek to Alice Springs NT

Tennant Creek to Alice Springs for a couple of days. Along the way we stopped at Devil's Marbles  where these massive granite boulders are spread all over the landscape some sitting quite precariously on top of each other. Just about to drive to another section and we almost drove over a snake but it looked and slithered away pretty quickly. Down at another part we were greeted by an arriving bus and yes it was the German tourists again, Ja Ja. Around the back  section we came across a campsite where there were a few overnighters and a rather old emaciated Dingo lying in the morning sun.

Devil's Marbles

This Dingo didn't really look all that well.

There was a town along the way called Aileron and it had an Art Gallery were there where these large statues of an Indigenous Male, Female and a child.

Aileron's Indigenous statues 

Just before entering Alice Springs we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn again this time they had a bit more information than Western Australia's sign.

NT's Tropic of Capricorn information Bay

Wednesday 21st March 2012 Day 22 Katherine to Tennant Creek NT

A day on the road from Katherine NT to Tennant Creek stopping along the way at the historic town of Daly Waters. Whats there?? A pub and a petrol pump and a few homes. Daly Waters claim to fame was the first International Airport in Australia and a World War 2 airstrip.
The pub was an interesting but nice place to visit. All over the bar were ladies bras and knickers hanging up, number plates and peoples ID's quite a collection.

Daly Water's Hotel

The Daly Water's Petrol Station

For the rest of the trip we just watch the changing landscape and after arriving in Tennant Creek we decided to go for a swim in the caravan park's pool. Lovely and COLD!

Monday 19th March 2012 Day 20 Darwin Mechanical Repair Stop

We took the opportunity to seek out Darwin’s only old VW specialist MBN Automotive with the car not starting a couple of times we thought it best to get it checked out. We discussed our issues with the owner; Myron and we left Boris with him to look him over. We decided to catch the bus to Darwin’s CBD to have a look around. The bus was air-conditioned, had a radio playing throughout and there were an array of very interesting characters.

We walked along the streets checking out the shops and sights and received a call from Myron saying that we needed an exchange starter motor and a relay to stop the “hot start issue”, a couple of new tyres and a CV boot replaced but it didn’t stop there as we had asked for a service including the Auto transmission.

Deciding to bus it to Casuarina we thought we’d check out the shopping centre which was a quite a good size. On the return to collect the Kombi the was this comical fellow who claimed to be Richmond’s number one paid supporter and telling everybody on the bus that, “if you never ever go, you’ll never ever know”, mmm I remember that being the Northern Territory’s tourist slogan not the AFL’s. Oh well it was good for a laugh (internally that is).

After paying for Boris’s repairs we went back to the caravan park and had some good ole home-style Bev cooking and took off again for a scenic night drive around the CBD. Pulling to the side of the road to close the water over there was this almighty roar not once but four times as the RAAF let four of it’s F18’s take off and looking back we were level with the beginning of the runway, what a sound! After our drive we called it a day.

Tuesday 20th March 2012 Day 21 Darwin to Katherine NT

After yesterday’s trials with the Kombi we decided to pack up slowly and head to wards Katherine. We checked into the Caravan Park and I asked what was on around Katherine, next minute we are booked onto a boat cruise up through a small part of the Nitmiluk Gorge (Katherine Gorge). It leaves in 45 minutes and its 30km’s up the road so off we went making it as the boat had just loaded everybody else on. Starting off this lady asks if we speak German answering no, but we soon find out we are on the cruise with a bus load of German tourists.  The only other English-speaking people were the boat operator and the cruise guide boat comical fellows. We cruised the gorge with some spectacular walls and were moored at this spot where we got off and walked a rocky track to a huge two-stage waterfall and pool. Off we went clothes and all into the crystal clear and cool water. We both swam to the waterfall for a shower, the water coming down hard onto our heads. It was so refreshing. The only disappointing thing was that as the level of the water was so high the boat was unable to access any other of the 13 gorges that make up the Katherine Gorge. One funny part was the German’s tour guide asked us about our trip as she was from Adelaide as well and we mentioned the kombi. She then realized they had passed us on the way to Katherine. She mentioned this to the German’s and there were some laughter obviously directed to us, Ja Ja. A great time!

A great place for a swim

Katherine Gorge

Sunday 18th March 2012 Day 18 Victoria Crossing Roadhouse to Darwin NT

Awoke early at the Victoria Crossing Roadhouse, so headed for the showers to be greeted by a large Cane Toad, which is not the prettiest creature I’ve even seen.

Heading off towards Darwin stopping for petrol at Katherine, which was the cheapest at $1.49 per litre. We have notice that the kombi runs much better with the higher-octane fuel and we also get better millage.

Leaving Katherine we were surprised that the road was so undulating for nearly the whole run to Darwin, the Kombi didn’t like it as it increased the temperature and there was only one lane so being overtaken was a problem. Several sections of the roads were damaged due to the recent flooding.

On the way went through Pine Creek and had a short stop at Adelaide River to take some photos of an old Commonwealth Railways train.

Commonwealth Railways NSU

 On arriving to Darwin we decided to check into a Top Tourist caravan park as we are a member and as we drove into the section where we where to camp there was Martjin and Marika set up along side us. How funny was that, so we sat around chatting over a few xxxx beers. We soon realized the caravan park was very close to the international airport by the frequent roars of jet engines.
During the night Darren was awoken by this noise in the front part of the tent so he opened the door peered out and was face to face to a very cheeky possum going through our food. We scared her off only to have her return knocking things over we left a light on and luckily she stayed away.

Saturday 17th March 2012 Day 16 Halls Creek WA to Victoria Crossing NT

Early start leaving Halls Creek at 6.30am on our way towards Katherine. It was an interesting drive along the way there were lots of wildlife as as we went on further there were brumbys, dingos, and a couple of frogs.

Got to Doon Doon Roadhouse WA  to fill up and good old Boris (the Kombi) wouldn’t start, lucky we had the  thumper (backup battery). Well off on our way again  and on entering the  NT the roads are narrow bumpy with even large pot holes and the speed limit is 130kpm . 130kpm what a joke we struggle to do 90kpm and you wouldn’t want to go that fast on these roads.

Driving through Gregory National Park  the gorges were quite pretty the rocky walls were red and some with some water falls with the spray drifting in the wind.

Needing petrol we stopped at Timber Creek finding it too be the dearest petrol so far, $2.01per litre. As the light was fading we pondered on to the next camp area arriving at the Victoria Crossing Roadhouse at about 5.30pm. Not knowing what to expect I walked into the roadhouse to find a clean nice little front bar with small dining area where we had dinner after we set up the camper.

Victoria Crossing Roadhouse

T-Bone and a XXXX for tea

The camp area was like being chucked in a paddock with a pole for power but it gave you a sense of being in the bush amongst the corellas and wallabies.

Whilst having dinner I looked out the window to see a medium sized frog, so I asked a lady who informed me it was not a frog but a Cane Toad. 

Victoria Crossing Roadhouse Camp ground NT

Friday 16th March 2012 Day 15 Broome to Halls Creek WA via the flooding creeks

A busy day on the road which started at 530am heading towards Fitzroy Crossing or Halls Creek. Rain for the whole trip but the story is yet to start.

After leaving Broome the Kombi was rolling on down the highway very cool as the rain had brought the temperature down but the rain was also bringing about some sizeable flooding. We went through several patches of water over the road along the way to Willare where we thought we would stop for petrol. "Sorry mate we have a problem with our ULP pumps but we have Diesel".  Gee Diesel that would be a great help, the next service station is Fitzroy Crossing some 250kms. Will we make it? Not sure but at least we have a jerry can of petrol up top.

One of the many Boab Trees near Willare

Almost into Fitzroy Crossing and we came across a flooded running creek approx 30-35cms deep. Do we push our luck? Yeah Darren did starting in second gear and having to throw the auto back to 1st as the water took our momentum away. A bit scary but there was more to come listening to the truckies on the UHF radio. As the water over the road was becoming more frequent we decided to use the jerry can of petrol as we were very low and didn't want to run out of petrol in the middle of the water.

Water water water just out of Fitzroy Crossing WA

After Fitzroy Crossing there were several significant floorings but after 40kms we can across the best yet. We were flagged down and spoken to by several people in 4WDs that have crossed this floodway but they suggested we should not tackle it. We thought about walking through it to see how deep it was and this Road Train was coming behind us. We spoke to him on the radio and as he got closer he said to slip in very close behind him and his three trailers would push the water out of the way for us so in I went and yes it was working but I could feel the water pushing us and the truckie saying are you still there little Kombi!! Luckily we made it. That was scary!!

Almost through the big one but for most of the way we were inches from this trailer

For the rest of the trip it just poured with rain. We arrived at Halls Creek and after refilling we had our first Kombi mishap. It wouldn't start, nothing at all. After trying to fiddle with the wires around the coil Darren got it started, (Darren's diagnosis.a hot start issue). Off to settle down for the night in the Halls Creek Caravan Park. Not long after settling down we hear this toot toot and its Martijn pulling up for the night also!

Halls Creek Caravan Park

Thursday 15th March 2012 Day 14 Broome WA

Set off to look around Broome, the day was overcast with several heavy showers. Hot and sticky, absolutely! Visited the information Centre and inspected a Pearl shop which was selling local pearls. Can't say if we brought any though.

Later on we decided to source out a 12 volt shop to get a longer 12 volt extension cord and we actually brought a 12 volt fan  for the Kombi which can be manipulated in several positions, it was quite expensive but it was worth it.

We visited Cable Beach and walked along watching several surfers doing a pretty good job! A nice beach but I have seen better. Returning to the Caravan Park we decided that we should leave tomorrow as the Tropical Cyclone Lau was about hit and Broome would go on some level of Alert. As we were packing this chap, Martijn came over to ask what we were up to as they were also worried about the cyclone. Martijn and his Mother, Marika were travelling around in a Toyota Hi-Ace camper. We spoke about heading to Fitzroy Crossing or Halls Creek.

Surfers on Cable Beach Broome

For tea that night we checked out a local Fish and Chip shop that Martijn had recommended for some Barra and chips. Yum in a word. Off to bed for an early start to beat the cyclone.

Cable Beach Broome

One of the locals at the caravan park in Broome

Wednesday 14th March 2012 Day 13 Port Hedland to Broome WA

Left Port Hedland at 6am heading for Broome. As we were leaving Port Headland we ran pass  the oversized road trains that we passed yesterday only this time we where in the Kombi thinking they will have to pass us but they never did. Along the way there were heaps of cattle wandering all over the road in various spots they just stand there and look at you as if you are stupid. Also there were hundreds of lizards that stopped, pop their heads up and watch you come and dart either away or towards the kombi luckily as we were driving so slow we missed nearly all of them.

Cattle all over the road

Once again good old Boris the Kombi continued to suffer with the heat much like Darren its owner. To give it a rest I decided to track nine kilometres through sand, dirt and water to reach Eighty Mile Beach, we were the only ones there. We originally thought we could go for a swim to cool off but the tide was so far out and there were huge jellyfish washed up, so that was the end of a swim. The beach was covered in shells big ones, little ones, all different shapes and colours  I have never seen so many shells so thick.

The sandy muddy road to Eighty Mile Beach

Eighty Mile Beach

About two hundred kilometres from Broome it started to rain as storm clouds developed which Boris loved he finally cooled down and we could do 80 kph an hour wow!!!

We arrived at 5.30pm set up for the night and made our way to the local shops and bottle shop.

Tuesday March 13th 2012 Day 12 Day trip to Karijini National Park WA

Up at 6am and Brad comes home from Night shift. What are we doing today? Well we decide to head off for a 650Km round trip with Brad and Michelle to Karijini National Park in The Hamersley Ranges.

Fortescue Falls Dales Gorge Karijini National Park

Went went to Dales Gorge and proceeded to walk down many deep steps and after about 20minutes we eventually came to the Fortescue Waterfall and pond where there were several people swimming. We proceeded to walk further until we reached the Fern Pool where Brad, Michelle and I went in for a dip. Darren couldn't be bothered after driving 300kms. The water was cool and very clear, you could see fish swimming in there.
It is such a very pretty place deep in the gorge. After walking back to the top we drove to another area of the gorge called the Circular Pool. After a short walk along a dusty path we came to a iron railing and one hell of a drop where this pool lies far below. I'd say at least 100metres.

The Dales Gorge looking down the gorge and looking straight down you'll see the Circular pool below

Circular pool, Dales Gorge

Bev and Brad cooling off in The Fern Pool Dales Gorge

On the way we had to pull over for a couple of oversized loads. Both loads required most of the road and two rigs joined together to pull them. Coming home we caught up with them again except this time we had to overtake them at 110kms with two wheels in the dirt Scary stuff.

Interesting loads that required us getting out of the way